A pricey experience without the refinement of where it references - Birdsong San Francisco - Buy Reservations
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😒 3/5 - A pricey experience without the refinement of where it references
By 👻 @Michael U, 02/06/2023 3:00 am
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Having moved from Alinea to Pastry at benu to Atelier Crenn and finally Chef de Cuisine at Saison the next logical step for Chef Christopher Bleidorn was a Restaurant of his own, and since 2018 that has been Birdsong. Said to emphasize seasonality and whole-Animal cookery, the website offering a wordy manifesto on wisdom and tradition, it is along a sketchy stretch of SoMa that guests will find a scene not unlike the one created by Skenes in terms of design, music and ethos. Priced higher than The French Laundry after auto-grat, prepaid reservations offered on Tock, it is at the Chef’s counter or surrounding tables that diners receive ten-courses from servers working in a mostly perfunctory role without much charm or personality. Leaving most of the cooking to Chef de Cuisine Yesenia Castañon, a first-generation immigrant cooking with a passion born on her Grandmother’s Mexican Food, Bleidorn watches mostly silent from the pass as Wine is poured and plates arrive, a single Oyster in foamed Fat not particularly delicious while a trio of Trout to follow ate like an essay on nose-to-tail butchery. Now holding 2* Michelin of its own, a bowl of “Root Broth” channeling Saison’s Brassicas without as much finesse, aged Cod is really where the menu starts to get interesting thanks to taste and complexity before proceeding to a “Sea Urchin Cream Puff” that doubles down on Saison’s famous Toast by adding umami-laced Butterscotch. Continuing to showcase baking skills with Cornbread & Caviar, a truly spectacular dish that nonetheless begs questions of how it fits Birdsong’s “whole Animal” concept, smoked Quail comes hot off the hanger with flavorful crackling Skin and condiments to formulate a Sandwich using smoky housemade Bread. Not a place to linger, presumably doing two turns a night, Lamb arrives with a generous Fat-cap and flavors intensified by dry-aging before a duo of Desserts that taste fine but fail to show any sign of either Chef Castañon or Bleidorn’s training in Pastry.
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