Despite playfully poking fun at the traditional Dutch eating habits, my dining experience over the past year has been nothing short of extraordinary. When my husband mentioned that De Nieuwe Winkel in Nijmegen was crowned the Best Vegetable Restaurant in the World two years in a row by We're Smart, I knew that I had to experience it for myself. We took a spontaneous detour, canceling our reservation at L'Arpège in Paris for our anniversary dinner to savor the flavors of Chef Emile van der Staak's Botanical Gastronomy. Tucked away in the former Catholic orphanage of Nijmegen, finding this hidden gem added an extra layer of adventure to our evening. Chef Emile's dedication to showcasing the best of Dutch ingredients amazed us. Nearly everything sourced locally, from Food Forest Ketelbroek to Ommuurde Tuin, Bodemzicht, and even green tea from Brabant. It's a true celebration of eating local taken to the next level. In Chef Emile's words, "Once nature has done its work, it is our turn. We pick. Smell. Taste. Analyze. Ferment. Cook. Until there is something on your plate that amazes and overwhelms you." Our enthusiasm for tasting the custom-made botanical drink pairings led to an exclusive tour of their lab. Witnessing the craftsmanship behind the scenes, from cheese to tempe, nukazuke, and all the botanical drinks, was an eye-opening experience. De Nieuwe Winkel is not just a restaurant; it's a culinary sanctuary where nature's bounty is transformed into art on your plate.

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Let's start with the positive: the food is innovative and brings you a complete new range of flavours. And the service in general is on spot, yet informal. Now the flipside: I did not like certain dishes, which can happen. But no one asks how the dish was when they clear it, and when I told them that I did not like a dish, the only question was 'Shall I then clear it?' I would have expected that if you don't like two or three dishes (and they are all a surprise for you) that you offer an alternative. Or at least a free coffee at the end. But nothing. When I raised this to the chef/owner, he told me that this did not fit in his cooking process and that he actually was not interested in his clients' feedback on the dishes. Which I find really odd for a 2-Michelin star restaurant with these prices. I told him I felt dissatisfied with my restaurant visit and he let me go. 'Have a pleasant life!' one of his staff shouted at me.

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an amazing experience from the first to the last dish! We loved the food, the bread, the butter and the cheese is not to be missed

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We went to De Nieuwe Winkel in December with a party of 4. We opted for the 9-course menu and added an extra "cheese platter" dish. All of the dishes, even for well-seasoned vegans, were surprising in that many were unrecognisable with unique appearances and tastes. The sunflower butter and accompanying crackers, for example, were delicious. The use of unusual ingredients such as a local lemongrass and Kliswortel is admirable. However, several dishes were also disappointing: the coiled cabbage (with silky tofu) and the (undercooked?) leek (in the superb Spirulina algae broth) were stringy and tough to break down; the "chocolate" desert was very oily; and the vegan cheese dish wrapped in vine leaves was rather distasteful; and the “risotto” was too rich. The wine pairing was OK (the smoked white wine is perhaps an acquired taste) and the non-alcohol version is to be recommended with unusual tastes. The service is very extravagant with waiters calling out dishes in unison and a bit over the top obsequiousness. Although we enjoyed the experience, I left without feeling inspired and will not readily return.

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