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Ranked #11 in Budapest's Best Restaurants.
😍 5/5 - Deserving of its 2* Michelin rating
By 👻 @IntlTraveller21stc, 12/27/2022 3:00 am
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The last time dining here was when it had a 1* Michelin rating back in 2018. Since then, it has gone from strength to strength culminating in its receiving 2* Michelin in 2022, so it was with quite some anticipation that we finally tried it again. The physical restaurant itself is a relatively small space tucked away down something of a side street in Budapest. The decor is unchanged from our previous visit, and now that they've received 2* status, perhaps it is a good time for a refurb. Not that it needs it per se, but one feels a 2* destination restaurant is somewhat different from a 1* establishment, and this needs to be reflected in more than just the food alone. Clearly this is not a primary concern... They sensibly offer a tasting menu only format with the choice between 6 or 8 courses; given the small price difference between the 2 the fact that the extra 2 courses are modestly sized, they should probably be even braver and go with an 8 course tasting menu format only for the dinner service. Interestingly, they offer a vegetarian tasting menu, although this carries the same price as the normal one. This feels a bit meanspirited as whilst there is still clearly a lot of work involved in its creation - indeed many of the dishes are the same as the normal menu - overall the raw ingredients are without question cheaper, yet this is not reflected anywhere. The quality of the cooking here was noticeably more refined, more considered, more confident than what I recall from our previous visit. I like the fact that a lot of the dishes are vegetable focused which typically requires a lot more creativity than say a more protein focused menu. This makes its style quite distinct from other high-end fine dining establishments where every course will typically be protein based. The level of cooking was overall very consistent between courses rather than there being some hits and some misses they all struck the right balance and as a consequence, the right notes. For me, and this is of course partly personal preference, some of the portion sizes could have been just a little larger, particularly the absolutely delicious dessert which was sized - for me at least - as if it were a pre-dessert. There were lots of canapes, amuse bouches, mignardises and suchlike so the experience certainly didn't feel as if it was lacking in generosity. That said, the price point, especially for Hungary, feels a bit toppy given that save for one dish there were hardly any "luxury" ingredients. Save for a fish dish which came with caviar, there were no other dishes which had traditional luxury ingredients, despite it being white truffle and black winter truffle season. I am sure that their riposte would be that this is not what the kitchen is about, their focus is creating something exceptional out of more humble produce, which they do absolutely achieve. However, as a regular diner in the very best restaurants, I could pay just a bit more than here for a 3* in say Germany or France where each course is created using high-end fish, seafood, truffles, etc. The wine list is impressive with a deep selection from the best Hungarian producers as well as a good selection of bottles from elsewhere in Europe and further afield. Interestingly the markups are very varied, from a few relative bargains to some bottles where the markups would not look dissimilar in London (not a city noted for its kindness to wine enthusiasts). The service was very friendly and warm and was pitched at just the right level and suited the overall feel and ambiance of this restaurant. All in all, without question, it is the best restaurant in Budapest and well worth a visit for its cuisine which is still firmly rooted in Hungary yet elevated to a 2* Michelin level.
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